Day 3: Camino del Norte

Mileage: 14.8 Total mileage: 42.7


Today I got to sit naked on a rock surrounded by crashing waves and crystal clear water while reading and journaling. I’m in trouble of not completing this pilgrimage if I keep having this coastal access. Unfortunately I knew this would be my last beach day for a while so I had to soak it up while I could. Tomorrow I start putting in some real miles and head inland and into the hills. 


I had a hard time falling asleep last night with the sounds of early 2000’s rap music blasting from a beat up, rustic, sketch van behind the shrubs my tarp was pitched. I heard about four to five young Spanish men hootin’ around crushing cans and sporadically cheering about something. I started to get frustrated as if when I decide to sleep the rest of the world should as well, but then I remembered I’m the tourist and found a small amount of pleasure in the joy they seemed to be having. Eventually I did sleep and woke up to a glorious sun rise over Zarautz while eating my morning pastry and sipping my tiny coffee. 


I felt excited to hike today. The trail was more secluded than it has been. After the gorgeous three mile coastal walk from Zarautz to Getaria, I started uphill on a single lane path paved by cobblestone and concrete. I spent a lot of time at 800 feet with beautiful views of the ocean and slow rolling hills. I dropped in and out of a few towns, but mostly stayed in the higher hills with my first real views of the surrounding landscape. There are huge mountain ranges to the south and I can’t help but wonder why there isn’t a path through them as I walk on paved roads for miles and miles, but I know I’ll get my fill soon. 


I got into Deba around 1300 and bought a Coke to drink while I sat in the local square people watching and massaging my foot. I can’t tell which of these towns I love the most. I spent a lot of time in Deba today and ended up stopping short of my initial goal because I loved it so much. It seems that everyone knows each other and are so excited to see anyone they do know when they are out. I so wish I spoke Spanish. 


I played tourist for a while today by going to the beach and having a swim and attending mass at a beautiful church built in the late 15th century and wondering the streets and alleys of this tiny town. Deba stole my heart and leaving tomorrow is going to be tough, especially since my beach time will be cut off until after Bilbao. 

Tomorrow my mileage begins to go up and hopefully the care I’ve given my foot the past few days allows it to hold up for all that’s in store. Onto Gernika! 

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